GROWING capsicums is relatively easy.

Like tomatoes, they are frost tender so are mostly grown during summer.

There are all sorts of capsicums,, usually divided into two groups; sweet and hot varieties.

They also come in many shapes and sizes, with popular sweet varieties being bell-shaped, long and narrow or cone-shaped.

Shape does not determine whether capsicums are sweet or hot, although most hot chillies are small, narrow and tapered.

Capsicums can be grown from seed or from seedlings obtained from garden centres.

In cool districts, strong seedlings are a big advantage in spring because they provide a flying start with earlier yields.

An ideal soil temperature for rapid seed germination is about 23C or higher and this should have young seedlings ­popping through in about eight days.

In cooler soils, capsicum seeds often remain swollen for too long and germination can be erratic.

A hot water bottle (carefully insulated with a towel and kept refilled) can be placed beneath three or four plastic bag-enclosed punnets. This usually does the trick.

When planting capsicum seedlings outdoors, choose a sunny location with light, loamy soil and good ­drainage.

Make sure the soil has been well-warmed by the sun for several weeks.

Capsicums prefer slightly acidic conditions and lots of moisture-­retaining sheep or cow manure in the soil.

High nitrogen fertilisers cause plants to become too lush at the ­expense of fruit production. Sheep or cow manure — well rotted — is ideal.

Like tomatoes, capsicums love ­intensely bright sunlight but need daily temperatures of above 25C or above for best results.

Space plants roughly half a metre apart.

Strong, sturdy plants are needed because the weight of closely packed fruit, especially bell-peppers, can drag weak stems down.

Spindly, single-stemmed plants are strengthened by pinching out growing tips to induce new, fruit-­carrying side growths.

All capsicum plants detest waterlogging, so avoid long, deep soakings.

As fruit form, start dribbling weak compost “tea” around each plant every few days and you will be astonished at the rapid increase in fruit size.

Harvest capsicums when firm and glossy. The more you pick, the more you will harvest.

If leaving fruit hanging to obtain colours such as red, yellow or purple-black according to variety, yields will be less, although richer colourings mean extra sweetness or increased heat.

Sweet varieties worth growing ­include Californian Wonder, Sweet Banana or the giant-size Big Momma.

Hot chilli varieties often need even warmer growing conditions.

They ­include Habanero Red (fiery-hot), ­Jalapeno (hot with flavour), Serrano (very hot) and Thai Hot (Asian head-lifters).

Eggplants are related to capsicums and most are true tropical plants but can still be grown in cool districts — always during summer.

I prefer to buy strong seedlings from our local nursery and grow them under cover, but in bright light, until planted outdoors in early December.

In parts of Tasmania, Victoria and some mountain districts, even well-formed plants may fail to form fruit if there are too many cool nights during summer.

Varieties such as Lebanese Bunching tend to crop better in cooler areas.

The Supreme variety carries big, egg-shaped, almost black-purple fruit while Bonica is slightly hardier.

They can be grown in the same bed as capsicums and tomatoes as all ­prefer the same, slightly acidic, humus-rich soil with a low nitrogen content.

All thrive and fruit better if treated to light sprinklings of sulfate of potash every few weeks and a steadily ­increasing water supply as fruit approaches maturity.

Harvest eggplants when smooth, firm and brightly glossy.

Once skins start to turn dull they tend to become bitter and full of hard seeds, so be sure to keep picking.

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