I use cheap, plastic tree guards for protection when first planting tomato plants. They are cheap, last for years and are effective — even though they are just floppy tubes.
I also drive in several wooden stakes around each plant, just wide enough apart for a plastic tube to be tightly slipped over and supported.
By mid-spring when frosts no longer pose a threat, the main protection they provide is against cold winds, especially at night.
Should the growth of young plants be checked they rarely recover, and remain stunted and crop poorly for the rest of the season.
While surrounded by the windproof tree guards, most tomato plants grow with astonishing vigour.
However, removing this protection has to be carried out carefully, otherwise the plants — top-heavy and no longer supported — are inclined to flop over.
As such, it is better to secure most stems to the stakes first. By this time, most plants have formed flower trusses and even a few small tomatoes.
Any supporting string should be passed beneath these trusses, rather than leaf-junctions, in order to take the full weight of the tomatoes as they develop.
Most tomato plants need to be constantly groomed, especially during the early stages of growth.
For example, the foliage closest to the ground rapidly becomes discoloured, mainly because it is the oldest.
Cut it off flush with a sharp knife, plus all other discoloured leaves.
It is a mistake to heavily prune plants because this reduces vigour and, in turn, means poor crops.
The only pruning needed is to pinch out the tiny shoots that sprout from leaf junctions to control and direct growth.
It is also a common blunder to remove leaves or branches to expose the tomato trusses to more sunlight.
It is temperature that ripens tomatoes — the ideal being about 25°C — and not direct sunlight.
In fact, the best-flavoured, fully-ripened tomatoes are always found deep inside the shadiest parts.
Over-exposed, sun-drenched tomatoes not only lose flavour, but often show signs of sun-scald. These are unsightly pale patches on skins, beneath which the flesh becomes hard and tasteless.
This is the real reason why it is wise to keep harvesting tomatoes while still green but fully developed.
They can then be brought indoors to complete ripening, always well away from windows. Cooler temperatures allow them to develop maximum flavour and sweetness.
Flavour can also be encouraged by applying sulfate of potash every few weeks at the rate of a tight fistful, sprinkled around each plant and immediately watered in.
Once tomatoes begin to form, watering must remain consistent. Should the soil around roots be allowed to become too dry, the plants stop taking up calcium, resulting in unsightly black scabs forming at the bases of many tomatoes.
The best way of keeping the soil constantly moist is by heavy mulching. Any kind of straw, hay, wilted weeds, grass-clippings or similar types of soft organic material can be used. Spread it widely to a depth of at least 100mm and keep it moist.
This not only reduces wasteful evaporation — a major cause of moisture loss — but keeps the soil cool during hot weather.
Mulching materials can be tucked in closely against the lower stems of tomato plants.
When enriched with well-rotted manure or blood and bone, organic mulches encourage extra stem roots to emerge to take up the additional nutrients. A good feeding mulch around tomato plants cannot only double yields, but also improve quality and flavour.
Fully developed tomato trusses are surprisingly heavy and can pull branches down to the ground, usually breaking them off at the base.
Vigorous tomato varieties may also need separate stakes to support individual branches.
The first trusses to ripen are usually those nearest the ground. As they are harvested, all lower leaves are also removed. This ensures better air circulation and reduces fungal diseases.
Any plant which is still stunted, has discoloured foliage and is clearly failing to thrive, is best pulled out — roots and all — and taken well away.
There is still plenty of time in most districts for tomato seedlings to be planted, including replacements.
Even where garden space is restricted, these easily grown plants thrive in large, bucket-size pots. All they need is a place in the sun.
(Dec 2015)
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