IT IS always difficult to get small seeds to germinate during the hottest times of the year.
That is because surface soil, in which newly sown seeds are lying, dries out rapidly, especially during warm, breezy weather.
When seeds swell prior to germination and then dry out, they always die. This is a major reason for failure, especially of carrot and parsnip seeds at this time of year.
I have a simple but effective way to overcome this.
First, choose a bed that has been previously fertilised for early-cropping vegetables such as potatoes, peas or lettuces.
Dig the bed deeply, preferably using a fork and always without bringing up subsoil so the fertile soil remains close to the surface.
A deeply cultivated bed is essential because carrots and parsnips develop long taproots that need to go down a long way.
Rake to level the surface and then give the entire bed a deep, slow soaking. Do it in a series of 10-minute bursts, making sure the subsoil also becomes saturated.
Then leave to settle overnight, allowing moisture to penetrate even deeper and for the soil to become more manageable.
Don’t bother with fertilisers with most soils. Over-rich soils, or those containing too much organic matter, cause carrots and parsnips to fork badly.
Parsnip seed is notoriously slow and difficult to germinate. The most common reason is because it is too old.
Buy fresh seed packets, choosing only those with the latest expiry dates. Even so, parsnip seed will still take up to 3 weeks to germinate, so prepare to be patient.
Good parsnip varieties include Yatesnip and Hollow Crown.
Carrot seed is more reliable and germinates in about 10 to 15 days.
In deep soil, Majestic Red will produce enormous, tender roots about 30cm long.
These big carrots are superb for all cooking purposes or grated into salads and are fantastic for juicing.
Other carrot varieties include Manchester Table with its straight, smooth sides and marvellously sweet taste.
For shallow, clay soils, go for the short, wide-shouldered, stump-rooted varieties such as Royal Chantenay.
Sowing the seed is easy. I press a long wooden garden stake into the soil to create straight, shallow grooves at half-metre intervals.
Carrot seeds are small and difficult to handle, so empty a packet into a cupful of fine, very dry sand and shake in a jar to mix.
Dribble the mix in the grooves. The sand helps space the seeds and partly bury them.
Do the same with parsnip seed — which is flat and paper thin.
Then gently spray water over the seeds to wash them a little deeper into the soil and begin the germination process.
Outstanding beetroot varieties include Derwent Globe and my own favourite, Bull’s Blood.
These seeds are much bigger and can be dropped along a groove, spaced about 5cm apart and then pushed in, just deep enough to be covered.
When watering beetroot seeds for the first time, I add about a level dessertspoonful of boron (available from most grocers as Borax) to 5 litres of water.
Beetroot plants need this stuff, especially in sandy, coastal soils.
This first boron application will be immediately absorbed into the swelling seeds and will last the life of the plants.
The results from treated seeds are always bigger, better and sweeter beetroot globes.
The earlier, heavy watering will now pay dividends as the moisture rises to the surface and continues to do so for a significant part of the germination process.
However, it is vitally important to keep the seed bed constantly moist. That means watering two or three times a day, if necessary.
Once seedlings appear and begin to grow, watering may be reduced to once a day.
The next job is to thin out overcrowded seedlings so those remaining are about 5cm apart.
This removes competition and the carrot, parsnip and beetroot seedlings immediately begin to grow rapidly.
The second thinning occurs mid-autumn, but by this time those removed will be big enough to eat.
The rest will grow on through winter, constantly increasing in size and perfect for non-stop pulling.
There is no better way of providing magnificent, nutritious food during the coldest months of the year — right when it is needed most. It’s worth the effort.
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